In the Heian Perid, the clothing was given the top priority to elegant appearance. However, since the warrior and their families were more active than nobles, the kimono became simpler to move easily.
Kosode, which played the role of underwear for 12 layer dress, became independent and its number gradually decreased.
And, as the layers decreased, the women had to tighten the collars firmly and they started to use “Obi”(band). Although the existence of Obi had been ambiguous in Heian Period it came out clearly to the front around 1300’s or 1400’s.
In the 1500s, the features of the present kimono were almost established, and the technique of weaving and dyeing developed greatly.
On the other side, most of the samurais wore kataginu (short sleeveless garment made of hemp) and hakama (pleated and divided skirt made in fine strips) until Edo Period.